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Wedding Accessories

The date has been set. The gown has been fitted. Cakes have been tasted and invitations ordered. Now it’s time to plan the flowers and all the gorgeous, detailed accessories that will make your wedding memorable. It really is true that the beauty lies in the details – all those extra little touches that help personalize the event and make it stand out as your own. And no one is better equipped to help guide you in your selection of wedding accessories than your professional florist – a qualified wedding specialist. From head to toe, your wedding designer can create unique and appealing floral fashion accessories to complement any style of dress and décor eye-catching designs that will captivate your guests and delight the members of wedding party.

For the bride, of course, the most obvious accessory is her bouquet. Today’s trends allow for practically any shape or style, but wedding bouquets in general tend to be compact and crowded with flowers that express a sense of richness and opulence. The addition of delicate accessories such as tiny faux jewels or decorative wire dancing over the surface of the bouquet creates movement and sparkle, making a very fashionable statement. The stems of hand-tied bouquets may be wrapped together in a luxurious, six-inch wide ribbon, establishing a tailored look with the addition of a row of pearl-headed corsage pins inserted along the seam. In a mono-botanical (all one type of flower) bouquet, stems of bold flowers such as callas, gerberas or French tulips may be individually wrapped with narrow, dressy ribbon (perhaps one with a metallic weave), becoming a sophisticated accessory to the design that strengthens its appeal.

To read more about wedding bouquet trends, see our previous newsletter, “Wedding Day Wishes

Beyond the bouquet, many brides are choosing to wear flowers in their hair in lieu of a veil. Depending on the hairstyle, flowers may be assembled into a delicate circlet to enwrap a bun, or they can be glued to barrettes and easily secured into the hair as desired. Naturally, the choice of flowers for these hair accessories should coordinate with the blossoms in the bride’s bouquet.

Shoes, as well, are a prime target for floral embellishment, particularly when the wedding dress has a shorter hemline. A single flower or two may be glued to the top front edge of the shoe, or a diminutive and delicate garland may wrap the back. Since the bride’s back is to the congregation throughout much of the wedding ceremony, this little accessory can be a delightful surprise for the guests. If the wedding is more formal in tone, the bride may choose to wear gloves, which could have buttons replaced or simply suggested by a row of tiny miniature rosebuds.

Decorative purses are the rage among members of the wedding party this season. Whether they are truly functional as purses or only ‘pretend’ imitations, little floral handbags are being carried as fashion accessories by bridesmaids, flower girls, and even the mothers of the bridal couples. For example, an inexpensive clutch or small pocketbook can be completely covered in foliage such as galax leaves, leaving the lip or edge of the purse to be embellished with delicate-appearing yet sturdy flowers, such as dendrobium orchid blossoms or miniature cymbidiums. A better quality purse may have only the edge decorated with a removable garland of flowers. An imitation handbag can be fashioned from craft foam and similarly covered in moss, foliage or petals, with a handle made of ribbon or artificial vines. A bit of saturated floral foam or a few water tubes are then used to secure the fresh flowers that appear to be brimming from within. Such a purse is a darling accessory for a flower girl, and can be decorated to coordinate with the small pillow, similarly embellished, to be carried by the ring bearer.

Let’s not leave the other guys out of the picture! While there aren’t quite so many opportunities to create floral fashion accessories for the male members of the wedding party, the boutonniere has evolved a great deal from the traditional rose bud in the lapel. Today’s dapper groomsman may wear a boutonniere that’s a work of art, resembling a teeny-tiny bouquet or embellished with flashy rhinestones and decorative beading wire. Or, in a departure from the norm, the boutonniere may be replaced with a pocket square: essentially an index card with small florets or flower petals glued across the short edge. The card is inserted into the jacket pocket with the floral accent showing above the edge. The possibilities are practically limitless with this new kind of stylish accessory.

Fashionable wedding accessories extend beyond the attire of the bridal party. The cake table, for instance, can provide an opportunity for some detailed enhancements. Because the wedding cake is a focal point for the reception, guests are able to see it at close range. Thus, the details of your decorating scheme can be appreciated. Cake knives and serving pieces are easily embellished with a few delicate blossoms and a bit of narrow-width, wired ribbon. The ribbon provides a surface onto which the flowers, foliage and other elements can be directly glued without damaging the utensils or contaminating the food. Toasting glasses may be decorated in a similar manner.

Likewise, the guest book signing area presents another opportunity for wedding accessories. Many couples are choosing to use this area to display framed photographs of themselves, individually as well as coupled, as a way of personalizing the celebration. Another suggestion is to place photographs from the weddings of the bridal couple’s parents here as a way to honor the previous generation. It’s a nice touch that will mean a lot to so many people.

With years of experience from which to draw upon, your local professional florist will have a lot of other ideas for accessories to personalize your wedding celebration. It is details such as these that both you and your guests will remember the most, and who better to help you create those memories than a skilled wedding specialist. Gather some of your own thoughts together, perhaps looking through bridal magazines and books, and call ahead for an appointment. Your florist will want to be able to devote as much time as is necessary during the initial consultation to understand exactly what is required to make your wedding dreams come true.
Planning a wedding? Need more ideas, take a look at Planning Wedding Flowers or Trend in Wedding Bouquets.

The perfect wedding ideas from Beautiful Wedding Flower Pictures to Decorating Ideas for a Wedding Reception.

For Fall wedding ideas, check out Fabulous Wedding Flowers and Roses and More Roses.

Yuletide Berries Holly and Mistletoe

The Christmas decorating season is here! So, as we get ready to deck the halls once again this year, let’s take a closer look at two of our most popular and traditional berried evergreens – holly and mistletoe. You may be surprised to learn that the customary hanging of these boughs dates back to a time long before Christmas was ever celebrated. Because neither holly nor mistletoe loses its leaves during winter (indeed, they even bear fruit), each was considered to be something special, even magical, at a time of year when other plants were barren.

The holly most often used and sold by professional florists is the English Holly (Ilex aquifolium), whose botanical name means “pointed leaves.” The English Holly and its many cultivars are noted for having lustrous, dark green leaves in the typical holly shape, and abundant, bright red berries. It’s also available in an attractive variegated form. In the landscape, the English Holly is slightly tender, meaning that it can be damaged by frost during an exceptionally cold winter. A hardier holly species is the American Holly (Ilex opaca), whose botanical name means “shaded” or “darkened,” referring to the matte texture of its green leaves. The American Holly has larger leaves than the English Holly, but they’re not as glossy or as densely arranged on the stem.

Holly Berries

Another holly in common use at Christmastime is the deciduous holly (Ilex verticillata), also called winterberry. As the name implies, this holly drops its leaves in the winter, leaving its woody stems more or less densely covered in red berries. Depending on how it’s cultivated and pruned, deciduous holly may have slender arching branches with relatively few berries, or its stems may be more compact, straight, and thick with berries. Winterberry holly has become more and more popular in recent years, and many florists are now featuring it in their holiday arrangements.

It’s interesting to note that hollies are “dioecious,” meaning that male and female flowers are borne on different plants. The fruits, of course, are produced on the female holly plants. However, without a male holly within striking distance of a honeybee to provide the pollen, there won’t be any berries. Some holly orchardists will even rent colonies of honeybees from beekeepers in order to assure a bumper crop of berries. If you’re planning on planting any decorative, berried holly bushes in your landscape, it may be a good idea to plant a male holly somewhere nearby so as to improve the chances for pollination. For more information on growing hollies, visit the website of The Holly Society of America.

Mistletoe In TreeNow, mistletoe is something else altogether. Mistletoe is actually a parasite – it draws its nourishment from the resources of another tree or shrub upon which it grows, sending its roots into the host plant’s vascular system to obtain nutrients. There are two types of mistletoe. The one most seen in Christmas decorations in this country is the North American mistletoe, (Phoradendron flavescens). The other, slightly smaller type of mistletoe (Viscum album) is of European origin. Both mistletoes have pale green, leathery leaves and produce small, sticky white berries which are considered poisonous to humans. The European mistletoe grows mostly on apple trees, although it may rarely be seen growing on oaks (a significant detail).

Mistletoe gets its name from the ancient belief that it arose from bird droppings. This belief was related to the widely accepted idea that life could spring spontaneously from dung. It was observed in ancient times that mistletoe would often appear on a branch or twig where birds had left droppings, which was in fact true, since birds do eat the berries and then distribute the seeds in the natural way (in fact, the only way the European mistletoe seed will germinate is after it has passed through the digestive system of a bird). “Mistel” is the Anglo-Saxon word for “dung,” and “tan” is the word for “twig.” Over time, “tan” became “toe.” So, the word mistletoe literally means “dung-on-a-twig.” From the earliest times, mistletoe was considered a bestower of life and fertility.

In the days before Christianity, both holly and mistletoe were thought to be charmed, due to the fact that they remained green when all the deciduous plants had dropped their leaves. In fact, they were considered to be the dwellings of the friendly spirits that inhabited the forests. People gathered these branches and brought them into their homes, both as a means of protecting the spirits of nature from the cold winter climate, as well as a way to bless their own houses. In fact, the sharp and prickly leaves of holly branches hung over a doorway were thought to dissuade evil spirits from entering the house and to keep witches away.

MistletoeTo the Druids, who were the high priests of the ancient pagan religions, the oak tree was sacred, and any mistletoe that was found growing in an oak tree was doubly sacred. During the winter solstice festival of Saturnalia (in honor of Saturn, the Roman god of agriculture), mistletoe was ceremonially harvested from the oak trees with a golden sickle, amid prayers that the recipients of the mistletoe would prosper. Embracing or kissing under the mistletoe was first associated with the Saturnalia festival as a sign of peace and that all bad feelings of the past year were forgiven. Later it became associated with marriage ceremonies as a sign of fertility.

As Christianity spread, the ancient traditions and the familiar customs of the pagan festivals were incorporated into the Christmas celebrations. This happened in part because Christianity was outlawed during various times in its history, and to be able to celebrate unnoticed and unmolested, early Christians moved the observance of Jesus’ birth to coincide inconspicuously with the Saturnalia festival.

Today, many centuries later, the tradition of decorating our homes with evergreens during the Christmas season continues. These modern day boughs of holly and garlands of pine are just as likely to be artificial as fresh, but the festive custom remains. No longer do we have to go out to the woods to harvest our own evergreens since most flower shops carry a full selection of both fresh and permanent greenery. If you’d rather let someone else deck your halls, many florists also offer professional on-site decorating services during the holiday season. Be sure to call early to schedule an appointment. And, while we may no longer believe that holly branches and mistletoe are the dwellings of forest spirits, they certainly do a lot to lift our own spirits during the holidays. ‘Tis the season to be jolly!

Dried Flowers

With the end of the summer growing season upon us, it’s a good time to take a look at dried flowers, which could become ‘semi-permanent’ replacements for the fresh blossoms that may have been coming from the garden. And even if you don’t have a garden, dried flowers are a great way to enjoy the beauty of nature’s bounty for years at a time. Many florists carry a selection of dried flowers from which to choose, or they can readily order whatever may suit your desire. In fact, dried flowers have been experiencing something of a renaissance in popularity lately as new design styles have emerged which showcase their beautiful characteristics to full advantage. And, quite simply, some folks prefer the ‘real thing’ as opposed to silk or artificial flowers.

Freeze Dried Pansies

Freeze Dried Pansies

There are certain flowers, which may come either from the garden or from the florist, that lend themselves very well to drying, including such examples as statice, celosia, straw flower, yarrow, baby’s breath, hydrangea and larkspur. Blossoms like these can be effectively dried just by hanging them upside down in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated location for a couple of weeks (darkness helps preserve the color). Even roses can be dried in this way, although they will tend to lose their color. Select flowers that are at or nearing their peak of development; they’ll look and perform better as dried flowers than ones that have already begun to fade. Be sure to remove the foliage from the stems of flowers to be dried.

Other flowers-especially flat, so-called ‘face flowers’ like daisies, pansies, asters, cosmos and zinnias – can be dried by pressing them. Fern fronds can be dried this way as well. Simply place the flowers between several thicknesses of unglazed paper, like blotter paper, newsprint, or an old phone book. Position the flowers so that none are overlapping or touching. Then place a heavy weight, such as stacks of bricks or books, evenly distributed, on top. Flowers dried in this manner are usually ready in two to four weeks, depending on their moisture content. There are also special devices called flower presses that do an excellent job of this. The flattened, dried flowers can then be arranged into a floral picture in a framed shadow box and hung on the wall. Or they can be ‘stemmed’ by using a piece of #20 gauge florist wire. Insert the wire up through the center of the dried flower from the back side. Bend the wire into a two-inch hairpin hook at the top and gently pull the hook back down through the flower’s center until it just disappears. Then cover the wire with green or brown floral tape, and they’re ready to arrange.

Kiln Dried Larkspur

Kiln Dried Larkspur

Perhaps the best way to dry flowers is by using a desiccant in which flowers are buried until they have dried. By using this method, the shapes and colors of more dimensional flowers like roses, carnations, marigolds, lilies, and dahlias can be preserved in the dried state. Old-fashioned, home mixtures, such as borax and white cornmeal (2:1) or borax and sand (2:1) may be used. But the best and fastest way is to use silica gel (actually a dry, granular material), which has the capacity to absorb large quantities of moisture and can quickly dehydrate fresh flowers. Silica gel is sold under a variety of trade names, and should be available from your local florist, garden center, or craft shop. In any case, flowers are gently and completely buried in the desiccating material, being careful to get the product in-between all the petals (it’s best to place multi-petaled flowers such as roses and carnations into the product face up). Use a container that can be tightly sealed so that the desiccant does not absorb any moisture form the air rather than from the flowers. Most flowers dried in this manner are ready in about a week. Silica gel can be re-used simply by drying again the product in a warm oven.

Flowers can also be dried in a microwave oven. In this case, bury the flowers in a desiccant as outlined above, but do not cover. Place the container into the microwave and ‘cook’ at a low-medium setting (the ‘defrost’ setting on many ovens) for about 2 ½ minutes, or, if you have a microwaveable thermometer that you can read from outside the oven, until the silica near the buried flower reaches approximately 160° F. When the container of dried flowers is removed from the microwave oven, place a lid (slightly vented) on it, and allow it to sit for about 24 hours before carefully uncovering the flowers. Since ovens, drying agents, and flowers all vary considerably, it’s best to experiment with this technique before committing ‘good’ flowers to the process.

No matter which method has been used to dry the flowers, they should then be sprayed with an aerosol sealer (again, check with your local florist) to help hold their color and minimize or prevent shattering. Avoid using anything sticky, like hairspray, which will attract dust.

Remember that dried flowers, while they do last quite a long time, aren’t really ‘permanent’. It’s usually best to replace them after 3 to 5 years. You can help extend the life of dried flowers (pun intended!) by taking good care of them. Keep dried flowers away from sunlight, which will fade them. Avoid excessive heat, humidity, and dust. Clean them regularly by blowing off the dust, using either a hair dryer on the no-heat setting, or by using canned air such as is used to blow dust off of computer keyboards and camera lenses.

Wreath of Dried Preserved Materials

Wreath of Dried Preserved Materials

Whether you choose to do-it-yourself or have your florist do the designing, dried flowers are nice to use in seasonal wreaths or door swags. Short-stemmed or stemless flower heads can be grouped and arranged very low and flat in a shallow tray or other container, using the stylish pavé technique. Taller dried materials can be massed very closely together to create a hedgerow effect. Dried flowers can be tightly arranged in concentric rings of a single variety, resulting in a classic Beidermeier style design. The shadow box idea outlined above can be a wonderful way for a bride to showcase and remember her wedding bouquet (be sure to have someone begin the drying process immediately after the wedding, while the flowers are still fresh). Your professional florist will have lots more ideas for designing with dried flowers, so stop in and talk about what kind of arrangement (or arrangements) will suit you best. Dried flowers aren’t just ‘dead’ flowers. Rather, they can have years of beautiful life left in which to decorate your own environment.

Cornucopia – The Horn of Plenty

Cornucopia Name

The cornucopia is a time-honored symbol of abundance, long associated with Thanksgiving. However, it was symbolic well before this holiday existed. The word ‘cornucopia’ actually dates back to the 5th century BC. It derives from two Latin words: “cornu,” meaning horn (as in the name of that one-horned creature, the “unicorn”) and “copia,” meaning plenty (a relative of such words as “copious” and “copy”). Thus, “cornucopia” literally means horn of plenty, and the names are used interchangeably. It was usually depicted as a curved goat’s horn, filled to overflowing with fruit and grain, but could actually have been filled with whatever the owner wished.

Cornucopia History – The Legend of Hercules & Achelous

Thanksgiving ConrnucopiaStill, have you ever wondered how this copious horn came to be? There are two historically understood origins of the cornucopia, and both come from Greek mythology. The first involves a feud between the renowned he-man, Hercules and the river-god, Achelous, the greatest river in Greece. The two were suitors for Dejanira, a young maiden of extraordinary beauty who was the daughter of King Oeneus of Calydon. The competition (the legendary Fifth Labor of Hercules) amounted to a colossal wrestling match, during which Hercules repeatedly gained the upper hand. Achelous, who was able to change his physical form, changed first into a snake, and then into a bull in order to gain leverage against Hercules. While Achelous was in bull form, Hercules tore off one of his horns and in doing so, diverted the river. The Naiads (nubile water-nymphs) treated the horn as a sacred object, filling it with fragrant flowers. The Goddess of Plenty (Copia) later adopted the horn, and dubbed it (appropriately enough) The Horn of Plenty, or Cornucopia. Incidentally, Hercules later married Dejanira and the two produced an abundance of children.

Ancient peoples were fond of uncovering hidden meanings in their mythological tales. The battle between Achelous and Hercules is explained by saying Achelous was a river that overflowed its banks during rainy seasons. [Read more…]

Favorite Herbs – Basil, Rosemary, Mint and Oregano

Basil, rosemary, mint and oregano are among the most popular of herbs, for growing as well as for cooking purposes, and all four have a long history of usefulness on the part of mankind.

  • They have been employed for medicinal purposes – in the Middle Ages, rosemary was eaten for its tranquilizing effects and as a cure-all for headaches.
  • They’ve played a role in superstition – mint was used back then to neutralize the “evil eye” and to produce an aggressive character.
  • They’ve even been brought into service to convey one’s romantic feelings – according to the Language of Flowers in use during Victorian times, basil was used to express either ‘best wishes’ and ‘love’ or else ‘hatred’, depending on which authority was consulted. Obviously, it was an inexact discipline.

These days, basil, rosemary, mint and oregano are grown primarily for their culinary uses. Because of their strong essences, all four of these herbs are generally used in small quantities to add flavor. They may be used in their fresh state or dried. Remember, however, that dried herbs generally have a greater concentration of the aromatic oils that give them their flavor than fresh herbs do, so use them in smaller quantities.

What is an herb? Botanically, any seed-producing plant – such as basil, rosemary, mint and oregano – that does not produce a barked, woody stem like a tree is considered to be herbaceous. Most people, however, think of herbs as being any plant cultivated for its culinary and/or aromatic properties, and there are nearly a hundred different plant varieties that fall into this category.

Herbs can also be classified as annuals, biennials, and perennials. Annuals bloom one season and then die. Biennials live for two seasons, blooming the second season only. Once established, perennials will overwinter and bloom each season. Basil is an annual which dies at the end of the growing season and must be planted each year. Rosemary, mint and oregano are all perennials and will continue growing year after year.

Gardeners may be curious to know that many of our favorite culinary herbs, including basil, rosemary and oregano, belong to the mint family, botanically known as Lamiaceae. Plants belonging to this family are easily recognized by their square stems and opposing pairs of leaves. They also have whorled flower spikes, and many, of course, contain aromatic compounds. Some other popular members of the mint family include salvia, lamb’s ears, and lavender.

Rosemary, mint, oregano and basil may all be grown both indoors and outdoors. Indoor gardening naturally provides year-round enjoyment of the plants. Select a south or west-facing window. Different herbs have different light requirements, but most need a sunny location; in winter, “grow lights” or fluorescent lamps are helpful in supplementing light. Use a well-drained soil mix and fertilize monthly during spring and summer with any standard houseplant food at one-half the recommended dilution rate. Pinch the plants back regularly to encourage bushiness. Since basil is an annual, it’s important to pinch off any flower buds that may begin to form in order to prevent the plant from completing its life cycle and dying. Give the plants a slight rest during winter when the amount of available light is reduced. Do not fertilize during this period and maintain the soil more on the dry side.

Outdoors, basil, rosemary, mint and oregano will all thrive in a sunny garden. Sow seeds directly into the ground in early spring, after the danger of frost has passed or start the seeds indoors during late winter to get a head start on the growing season. Of course, you can always buy young plants from a nursery or garden center and plant them in your garden. Make sure the garden is located in an area that gets at least four hours of sunlight each day. The soil should drain well, as most herbs can’t tolerate ‘wet feet’. Once established, you can harvest leaves from the plants to use in cooking. Pinch or prune the plants regularly to keep them from getting leggy.

Below are some individual tips about basil, rosemary, mint and oregano:

  • Basil is an annual plant with attractive, bright green oval leaves. Purple-leafed forms are also available. Growing to about 18′ tall, the basil plant produces spikes of small white flowers near the end of its growing cycle. However, these should be pinched off to encourage further growth and fuller, more compact plants. It’s best to harvest basil leaves for drying just before flowers appear, as this is when the flavor is strongest. Basil is a popular herb for cooking, especially in seasoning tomato dishes.
  • Rosemary is a hardy evergreen shrub in areas where the temperature stays above 5°F during the winter. It has narrow, bluish-green needle-like leaves that are soft to the touch and have a spicy, resinous fragrance. Rosemary also produces pale blue flowers. It grows best in sunny, well-drained locations. Pinch the tips to promote fullness. Rosemary is often used to flavor meats, such as lamb and pork, or in making savory sauces. Tradition has it that rosemary symbolizes love and fidelity, and for that reason it is sometimes incorporated into bridal bouquets.
  • Mint is available in a tremendous variety of ‘flavors’. including spearmint, peppermint, applemint, and more. It grows from creeping rootstocks that can become invasive if not contained. Mint thrives in sunny or partly-shaded areas in moist soil. Pinch it frequently to keep it bushy and compact. Harvest the leaves at any time of the year. Mint leaves for drying are best harvested just before the flowers appear, when the aromatic oils are most concentrated. Mints are used in teas and in other flavorings, such as sauces or jellies for lamb or other meats. The menthol in peppermint soothes the lining of the digestive tract. Mint extracts are used to flavor ice cream, toothpaste, candies, etc.
  • Oregano is a hardy perennial with sprawling stems that can reach two feet tall. It has small pink or white flowers. Stimulate the production of foliage by pinching off the flowers. It does well in poor soils. Oregano’s pungency is directly related to the amount of sunlight it receives. It is best treated as an annual in cold climates, or it may be grown in pots that can be brought indoors for the winter. The flavor of oregano’s leaves improves after buds form, just before flowering. In sauces, etc., add oregano in the last few minutes of cooking, because it can become bitter if cooked for more than 30 minutes. Oregano is used extensively on pizza and in other Italian dishes.

As you know, we’ve barely scratched the surface when it comes to discussing the always popular oregano, basil, rosemary and mint. And there are so many other herbs to consider as well. It should also be noted that herbs which produce a fairly woody stem, such as rosemary and oregano, can be trained as decorative topiaries. Some florists – especially those associated with garden centers – are carrying herb plants, so consult your neighborhood florist about local availability. Whether you grow herbs indoors or out, you’ll enjoy having these fresh seasonings close at hand. Bon appetit!

Wildflower and Garden Flower Arrangements

Fresh cut flower arrangements that have the look of wildflowers or garden flowers have been popular for decades. These kinds of flowers have universal appeal. We seem to enjoy the unfettered spontaneity and the casual appearance of such floral designs, reminding us of a walk in the woods or a stroll through the garden, whether or not the flowers really are wild or gathered from a perennial border. But cutting wildflowers isn’t always practical or even permissible, and not everyone has access to a garden full of lovely blossoms just waiting to be picked. Fortunately, your professional florist has the skills and the materials necessary to create an arrangement which evokes the feeling of a meadow, lush with wildflowers or the nostalgia of Grandma’s colorful flower beds.

Flower Ideas

While the flowers found in a typical flower shop aren’t truly cut from the wild, there are many floral materials available which can give the impression that they are. A wildflower design will usually be composed of delicate-appearing blossoms that are often relatively small in size or delicate in texture.

  • Such flowers as alstroemeria, freesia, yarrow, or crocosmia might be incorporated. The slender, curving stems and frilly petals of flowers like scabiosa or lisianthus can enhance the mood of the arrangement.
  • Small scale line flowers, such as veronica, lysimachia, or even certain grasses, mix well with the others.
  • Filler flowers like Queen Anne’s lace, Monte Casino asters, or Misty Blue limonium add depth and texture. For foliages, choose willowy fronds of asparagus `ferns’ (they aren’t truly ferns), wispy blades of bear grass or branching twigs of huckleberry.
Out of the Woods

Out of the Woods

Garden Flower & Wildflower Arrangeming

Wildflower-style arrangements are comfortable in either a vase, basket or a recycled container. In any case, the cut flowers are usually placed in a random, almost `unarranged’ fashion that incorporates a fair amount of open space, suggesting the way flowers might appear if they were growing in a field or a meadow. Similar blossoms may be subtly grouped together, just as they are in nature. Tying a few strands of raffia around the neck of the vase, or tucking some green moss into the base of the basket enhances the casual feeling of a wildflower arrangement. An empty bird’s nest can be a charming accent.

A garden-style flower arrangement is similar to a wildflower arrangement in that the mood of both designs is relaxed and informal. But an arrangement of garden flowers will usually feature larger blossoms in a profusion of colors. The feeling is one of abundance and variety, just like a well-planted flower garden. Cultivated flowers such as hydrangeas, zinnias, stock, and roses are arranged in a profusion of blooms. Dominant line flowers like gladioli, snapdragons, or delphinium may be incorporated for height, while bold form flowers such as gerberas or lilies may command attention in the focal area of the design. Baskets or simple vases are appropriate for garden style arrangements as well.

Garden Trellis Arrangement

Garden Trellis Arrangement

Think Seasonal

Garden flower arrangements will usually reflect the offerings of the season. For example, tulips, iris and hyacinths may be featured in the spring whereas sunflowers and dahlias make their appearance in mid-summer. A garden-themed arrangement may even feature flowers arranged in a vegetative style – that is, grouped and segregated into specific zones within the design to suggest they way they might actually grow in a well-planned flower bed. What you most likely won’t find in a garden style arrangement are the tropical cut flowers, such as anthuriums or birds of paradise (unless, of course, you happen to live in Hawaii)!

If you want to create an arrangement of flowers from your own garden, be sure to cut the blossoms during the cool part of the day – early morning is best, because that is when the flowers are full of energy which has been assimilated overnight from the photosynthesis of the day before. Select blossoms that are just beginning to open; they’ll last longer and continue to open in the vase. Cut the stems a little longer than you think you’ll need them, because you’ll want to re-cut them once you’ve brought them indoors. See our earlier newsletter on approved care and handling procedures to keep the flowers looking their best for the maximum amount of time. You might even want to pick up a few extra stems from the neighborhood flower shop, such as a sprig of babies’ breath or a handful of miniature carnations, to augment the blossoms you’ve cut.

Remember that your professional florist has the expertise to create any kind of arrangement you may desire, including wildflower and garden flower designs. With modern growing techniques and overnight international shipping, practically any kind of flower can be had at almost any time of the year. You’ll get your best value, however, if you ask your florist to stick to flowers that are in season. Whether buying a few fresh stems for yourself, or sending a bouquet to someone far away, your local florist can help re-create that happy feeling of communing with those colorful gifts of nature – the subtle beauty of wildflowers or the abundant diversity of the garden.

African Violets for One and All

African violets are the most popular houseplants in America, period. Enduring symbols of friendship and faithfulness, African violets have seemingly been around forever. Many of us have nostalgic memories of the African violets that always grew on our grandmothers’ windowsills, charming us with their fuzzy leaves and their perky blooms in shades of blue, purple, and pink. In Grandmother’s day, there weren’t all that many varieties African violets to choose from. She might be surprised to learn that today, there are more than 14,000 different named African violet hybrids!

And while that number may seem mind-boggling for most of us, to a real African violet enthusiast, the possibilities are endless. There’s always another new combination of blossom color, petal shape, flower size, foliage texture, or leaf outline to be discovered among the millions of seedlings that African violet hybridizers create every year.

African Violet Basket

African Violet Basket

The first African violets were discovered in 1890 by Baron Walter von Saint Paul, a German explorer who found them growing in the crevices of rocks in East Africa, in what is now known as Tanzania. He sent some of the plants back home to his father, who gave them their botanical name, Saintpaulia ionantha (which in Latin means “with violet flowers”). It wasn’t until 1920 that the African violet was introduced in the United States, but because it requires a warm atmosphere (between 65-75°) it did not become a popular houseplant until central heating was installed in households. More than 20 species of African violets have since been discovered, and hybridizers have had a field day crossing from these original species to develop the thousands of varieties we enjoy today.

African violet hybridizers and fanciers delight in the minute details of the plants. For example, blossoms are categorized by several different characteristics, including:

  • number of petals: single, semi-double, or double
  • shape: star-shaped, bell-shaped, wasp (narrow petals), etc.
  • edge: fringed, rippled, different color, etc.
  • markings: chimera (striped), fantasy (splotched or streaked), etc.
  • color: two-tone, multicolor, etc.

Some of the defining features of African violet foliage include:

shape: pointed, ovate, spoon, spider (elongated), etc.
edge: scalloped, crested, ruffled, fringed, tailored, etc.
texture: quilted, supreme (thick and hairy), etc.
markings: variegated, crown, mosaic, etc.

As you can imagine, the possible combinations of African violet characteristics are practically endless. And although blues, purples, pinks and whites still dominate the color selection, there are African violets available today in shades of red, yellow, and even green. A true orange seems to be the color that is still elusive to African violet breeders.

African violet care is fairly easy. In general, soil should be kept moist but never soggy. Avoid getting water in the leaves or letting water settle in the crown or center of the plant, which can quickly lead to rotting. Use room temperature water. Some African violet growers use a wicking system for watering their plants, placing the pots upon a mat of absorbent material that’s kept moist. This process allows the plants to draw water up from the bottom. Allow for some air movement around the plants at all times to prevent mold or fungus diseases.

Image of African Violets - courtesy of AboutFlowers.com -  July 2005 FSN Newslette

African Violets

African violet plants grow best in bright shade. A north-facing window is usually ideal; the plants can receive bright light without direct sun, which can bleach or burn the leaves. It is important that African violets receive at least eight hours of darkness each night in order to promote blooming. Even the light from a lamp or an overhead fixture can disrupt this cycle, known as the “photo period” (the daily amount of light and darkness required to initiate flowering). Many enthusiasts prefer to grow their African violets under lights, allowing them to maintain absolute control over the amount and quality of light their plants receive.

Feed your African violets regularly with a “balanced” fertilizer, one in which the three numbers on the label (that represent the available amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potash, respectively) are equal or nearly so. Follow the directions on the package as to the frequency of application. It’s important to avoid over-feeding, because it can cause cracked leaves and will actually impede flowering. Be certain that the fertilizer you use is 100% water soluble, which allows it to be fully utilized by your African violet plants. Its also a good idea to periodically leach the soil in the pot by pouring water through the soil until it runs out the drainage holes. This process helps to eliminate the buildup of fertilizer salts that can damage the African violet’s tender feeder roots.

For more information about African violets, visit the website of The African Violet Society of America or AboutFlowers.com. Also, check with your area botanical garden to see if there is a local group of African violet fanciers whose meetings you might attend. Whether you’re adding to your own collection or sending an African violet plant to someone locally or out of town, your neighborhood florist is a valuable local source for discovering some of the new African violet varieties. And if you’ve never tried growing African violets, maybe now is the time to start. They’re not just for grandmothers after all.

Ficus and Philodendron: Favorite Houseplants for Father’s Day

Father’s Day is coming up this month (June 19), and if you’re stumped for a gift, why not send Dad a tropical houseplant to let him know how much you appreciate him? Your local florist has a selection of favorite houseplants from which to choose, including ficus plants and philodendrons – two sturdy specimens with a proven track record of flourishing indoors. Each one of these popular groups of houseplants occurs in several different, easy-care varieties, so you’ll be able to select the one that best suits your father’s personality and matches the growing conditions he’ll be able to provide.

Image of Benjamin Fig (Ficus benjamina) - June 2005 FSN Newsletter
Image of Benjamin Fig
Ficus benjamina

The word ‘ficus’ means ‘fig’ in Latin, and in addition to the tree that bears the tasty fruit of Fig Newton® fame, the ficus group contains some of our most universally popular houseplants, including the well-known Ficus benjamina, or Benjamin Fig. Ficus benjamina is the familiar ficus tree of shopping malls and hotel lobbies, noted for its handsome, silvery-gray bark and glossy green leaves. In warm climates, ficus trees are regularly planted as part of the outdoor landscape, where their versatility allows them either to be grown as shade trees or pruned into hedges. In colder regions, Ficus benjamina is often chosen for interiorscapes because it has the size and appearance of a familiar outdoor tree, bringing a welcome sense of the outside in. Given enough room and adequate light, they can grow to be two stories or more tall. Because of their tropical origins, ficus trees cannot tolerate temperatures below freezing, and they’ll often drop their leaves if the thermometer dips below 50° F.

Another member of the ficus family is the enduring rubber tree (Ficus elastica), a plant that has been grown indoors for generations. With its bold, leathery, dark green leaves and coarsely textured stem, the rubber tree presents a distinctly masculine appearance. The cultivar ‘Decora’ has even darker leaves with a reddish cast to them. Similar in habit to the rubber tree, but less commonly seen, is the fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), which has glossy, broadly pear-shaped leaves up to 18″ long with deeply impressed veins, giving it a very sculptural appearance. Like the rubber tree, the fiddle-leaf fig reaches a height of 40 feet or more in its natural environment of tropical Africa. But don’t worry; it’s easy to keep within bounds in your living room just by pruning it back.

Image of Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica) - June 2005 FSN Newsletter
Image of Rubber Plant
Ficus elastica

All of the arborescent (tree-like) members of the ficus family respond well to the same care. Allow them to become slightly dry between thorough waterings. Never permit the soil to get so dry that the leaves wilt, which indicates that the fine root hairs that absorb moisture and nutrients are dying. Conversely, never let the soil become soggy and waterlogged, a condition that will drown the root hairs and quickly cause leaves to drop. Provide bright light; preferably near a sunny window, but most ficus trees will adapt to lower light situations. Ficus plants are heavy feeders, so fertilize monthly, spring and summer, with a balanced houseplant food. The large-leaved members of the ficus clan will accumulate dust, thereby blocking light from reaching the leaf surfaces, so be sure to wipe them regularly with a damp cloth or sponge. Ficus trees are somewhat notorious for dropping their leaves when they’re moved. Don’t worry too much if this happens; the plant is acclimating to its new environment and will grow new leaves once it’s adjusted.

You may be surprised to know that there is a small, vining, ivy-like member of the ficus family: the creeping fig (Ficus pumila). The creeping fig is a popular outdoor groundcover in tropical regions, where it will enthusiastically climb walls and tree trunks by means of its strongly adhesive aerial roots. This ficus has diminutive (1″ or less) leaves on slender, thread-like stems. It thrives in a moist, warm, and humid environment.

Philodendrons are a diverse group of plants, encompassing many forms from small, trailing vines to giant trees. The word ‘philodendron’ itself means ‘tree-loving’, referring to the vines’ tendency to grow up the trunks of trees in their native tropical jungles. Because philodendrons are well adapted to the shady conditions of the rain forest floor, they are excellent candidates for surviving in the low-light interiors of many homes and offices.

Image of Tree Philodendron (Philodendron selloum) - June 2005 FSN Newsletter
Image of Tree Philodendron
Philodendron selloum

One of the more sculptural philodendron varieties in cultivation is the tree philodendron (Philodendron selloum), which produces broad, shield-shaped leaves that are deeply incised along the wavy margins, creating long finger-like lobes. The cuts become deeper and wavier, and thus more dramatic, as the plant matures and the leaves become larger. Though it grows somewhat slowly, this philodendron has the potential to reach large proportions, gradually forming a thick and interestingly patterned ‘trunk’ as it naturally drops older leaves in favor of new ones. It also produces long, ropey aerial roots, which may be tucked back into the pot in order to help nourish the plant.

Hybridizers have, for years, been developing new philodendron cultivars with unusually colored foliage. These are bold-leaved plants with a masculine personality. For example, ‘Black Cardinal’ is a low-growing, shrubby philodendron with spade-shaped leaves that are so dark, they appear to be almost black. ‘Prince of Orange’ sports bright, bronze-toned leaves on vivid orange stems. Philodendron ‘Moonlight’ produces new leaves with a bright chartreuse color that ages to a subtle gray-green. The new foliage on ‘Imperial Red’ unrolls in a deep burgundy-red color, becoming dark green with a burgundy tint as it matures. All of these philodendrons are known as “self-heading” varieties, meaning that they grow slowly and stay low and compact, neither vining (and needing a bark support) nor developing a trunk like Philodendron selloum.

While most philodendrons are happy enough in low-light situations, the more colorful ones require brighter locations. All philodendrons should be kept evenly moist at all times, and fertilized regularly. The climbing types should be grown on a support, like a tree bark totem pole. Otherwise, the newly-produced leaves will become smaller and smaller. See our earlier newsletter for more philodendron care instructions.

You can see more pictures of these and other types of houseplants by visiting Flower Shop Network’s Gallery of Tropical Plants. Watch for future newsletters describing other kinds of tropical plants. And remember that your local professional florist can easily have one of these popular houseplants delivered to your Dad whether he lives nearby or out of town. How appropriate to send something green and growing to the man who did so much to help you grow when you were still green yourself.

Orchids and Orchid Care

The popularity of orchids has increased tremendously in recent years. Fresh cut stems of spray orchids are being produced by the hundreds of thousands in places like Hawaii and Thailand. Orchid plants are regularly featured in the interior layouts of shelter magazines, and more and more flower shops are carrying them on a regular basis. Orchids are now the second-highest selling blooming plants in the U.S. (behind poinsettias), and as availability has increased, prices have come down.

Orchids have always been associated with a sense of the exotic, wild, and rare, and orchid care has a reputation for being difficult and mysterious, which seems to make them that much more special and desirable. In fact, growing orchids isn’t really that hard if you choose the right varieties. Some are quite durable and resilient. But even if you don’t want to actually grow them, orchid blooms last a long time on the plants; longer than a bouquet of cut flowers. So you could think of a blooming orchid plant simply as a very long lasting fresh arrangement, and discard the plant when it’s finished flowering. To most people, orchid plants aren’t that attractive without the flowers.

One of the easiest orchids to care for is the phalaenopsis (fail-an-OP-sis), sometimes called the Moth or Butterfly Orchid. The phalaenopsis orchid produces flowers with a broad, flat petal on either side, resembling the open wings of a butterfly. These orchids are most often seen in a crisp white color with a lemon-yellow throat, although many other colors and patterns are grown, with new ones appearing on the market all the time. Purple, pink, and peach shades are prevalent. Some varieties have minute speckles on a contrasting background color. Others have flashy pinstripes on their petals. The flowers usually range from about 2 inches to nearly 5 inches wide. Depending on the variety, a phalaenopsis orchid can produce a scape (flowering stalk) with anywhere from 3 to 20 flowers on it, and older, mature plants may have 3 or 4 scapes in bloom at one time. The plant also grows elongated, often rounded leaves that lie more or less flat in two ranks on top of the growing medium. Wiggly, silver-gray aerial roots are also produced, which serve to draw moisture from the air or from the potting mix.

Phalaenopsis orchids, like the majority of orchid plants, are known botanically as epiphytes. In the wild, epiphytic plants (including orchids, bromeliads, anthuriums, and many ferns) live high in the branches of trees where they can benefit from maximum exposure to bright light and fresh air. They absorb needed moisture from the humid atmosphere of their natural environments. They obtain nutrition from decomposing organic matter, such as leaf litter, that accumulates among their roots or in the forked tree branches where they’re perched. In order to provide the best orchid care, we try to duplicate those growing conditions as closely as possible. That means that orchid plants are typically potted in a growing medium composed of bark, crushed charcoal, lava stones, sphagnum moss, or some combination of the above. Planting an orchid in ordinary potting soil would eventually lead to its death from suffocation.

An orchid’s roots must have access to humid air, and orchid growing media are designed to provide a moist and humid environment around the roots, while at the same time allowing plenty of fresh air to circulate. Bark and porous stones, etc., give the roots something to anchor themselves to while supporting the orchid plant upright in its pot. Allow the potting mix to approach dryness in between thorough waterings. Such a growing medium will drain quickly, preventing the roots from drowning. However, it will not retain very much nutrition for the orchid plant. Therefore, orchids should be fed with almost every watering, using a dilute solution of fertilizer, specifically prepared for orchid plants. Once the flowers have come and gone, stop fertilizing and slow down a bit on the watering. Let the growing medium dry slightly and give the orchid plant a chance to rest for several weeks, but don’t allow the leaves to shrivel.

Most species of orchids require very bright light in order to grow and flourish. However, the phalaenopsis orchid is one type that will survive in less light, making it easier to grow. Another somewhat shade-tolerant variety is the Lady Slipper orchid (Paphiopedilum sp.). The Lady Slipper has a rounded lip that extends from the face of the flower, looking like the toe of a ballet slipper and giving this orchid its common name. The ‘paphs’, as they are affectionately called, often have colorfully-mottled foliage, making them somewhat attractive even when not in bloom. In any case, it’s best to grow orchid plants in pots that are placed on top of a gravel-filled tray. Keep the gravel wet, with the bottoms of the pots above the water level. As water evaporates from the tray, the atmosphere immediately surrounding the orchids will stay nice and humid.

There are, of course, many other species of orchids which may be successfully grown indoors, including cattleyas, miltonias, cymbidiums, and others. For more detailed information about orchid care, visit the website of the American Orchid Society (www.orchidweb.org). There are more than 20,000 known species of orchids, and untold numbers of wild orchids that haven’t been discovered. The sad truth, however, is that the natural growing habitat of orchids – the tropical rain forest – is rapidly disappearing through irresponsible management and clear-cutting.

Among cut flowers, some of the more popular and readily available varieties are the so-called spray orchids, including dendrobiums, oncidiums, arachnis, arantheras, and vandas. Dendrobiums usually come in white, purple, or some combination of the two, although green varieties are also obtainable. The flowers are normally between the size of a quarter and a fifty-cent piece, occurring on graceful, linear sprays anywhere from 10 inches to two feet or more in length. They’re long lasting and can add a touch of class to any flower arrangement.

Oncidiums, also known as Dancing Lady orchids, have delicate yellow flowers speckled in brown, and are arranged on wispy, branching stems. Their common name comes from the fact that the lower petal of the flower is wide, rounded, and slightly ruffled like a miniature ballgown. Though not quite as durable as the dendrobium orchids, oncidiums are exquisitely bright and appealing.

Less commonly seen as cut flowers are the vanda, the arachnis, and the aranthera orchids. Vandas are usually crowded on relatively short, fairly thick stems. Long lasting and sturdy, they’re available in an interesting range of colors, including a smokey purple, a deep burgundy, and a brassy gold with tiny brownish speckles. Arachnis orchids are also called ‘Spider Orchids’, and the shape of the flower lives up to the name. Their stringy, greenish-yellow petals are eerily marked with blood-red splotches. Arantheras feature slender blossoms on firm stems. One variety, ‘James Storei’, has attractive brick-red flowers on long, branching sprays.

Even though they may be grown in faraway places, your favorite professional florist can usually get any of these orchids for you with enough advance notice. Perhaps they are already carrying them as part of their usual inventory. In any case, with Mother’s Day approaching, consider sending Mom a long-lasting orchid plant, some sprays of cut orchid blossoms arranged in a vase, or a traditional cymbidium orchid corsage. She’ll be sure to appreciate the exotic beauty of these fascinating flowers.

Trends in Wedding Bouquets

Wedding Bouquet - April 2005 FSN Newsletter
Wedding Bouquet

After selecting her wedding gown, a bride usually next turns her attention to her wedding bouquet. As every professional floral designer knows, the bridal bouquet is typically seen as the focal point of all the wedding flowers, and today’s brides are taking advantage of that fact as they plan the flowers for their weddings. Wedding gowns are becoming more glamourous, featuring striking silhouettes and elegant detailing, and wedding bouquets are following suit (if you want to know which wedding dress styles will be popular, just watch the annual telecast of the Oscars or the Emmy Awards and observe the gowns that the stars are wearing). This year, the trend is toward mermaid-style gowns; usually strapless, tightly-fitted at the waist and knees, and having a broad trumpet flare at the hemline. Naturally, such a dramatically-tailored dress calls for an equally stylish bridal bouquet to be carried as the perfect complement.

Thus, the current trend in wedding bouquets is to keep them small, compact and tasteful, using exquisite types of flowers and gorgeously-detailed accents. The bridal bouquet should reflect the character of the gown, and must not compete with or overwhelm it. Customization is the key. Just as all the wedding flowers are an expression of the bride’s taste and personality, so is the bouquet designed to be uniquely hers. And just because a wedding bouquet may be small doesn’t mean that it has to be ordinary.

Colorful Wedding Bouquet - April 2005 FSN Newsletter
Colorful Wedding Bouquet

For example, today’s wedding bouquets are more likely to be colorful instead of white. The custom of carrying a bridal bouquet of all white flowers is said to have originated with Queen Victoria’s wedding to Prince Albert in 1840, when she wore orange blossoms and carried snowdrops (Albert’s favorite flower). Even then, wedding fashions were influenced by the choices of those in the public eye. Now, warm colors are in, and a stylish bridal bouquet may be composed of flowers in varying shades of red, including those hues that harmonize well with it. Exotic types of flowers, such as deep purple callas or yellow and crimson gloriosa lilies, might be combined with more familiar blossoms like burnt orange tulips and scarlet red roses, creating a very eclectic assortment. In such a bridal bouquet, it is the impact of color that makes the statement. White would not be included in the assortment because its presence would dilute and diminish the effect created by such a bold color harmony. Furthermore, colorful flowers show up beautifully in the wedding pictures, documenting memories that last a lifetime. White flowers are more difficult to photograph effectively, especially against a white dress.

Texture is another important element of contemporary bridal bouquets. The detail of texture is enhanced by mixing different types of flowers, such as waxy hypericum berries or fluffy sprigs of heather, with the velvety surfaces of rose petals or the frothy appearance of seeded eucalyptus. Delicate spray orchids may be combined with the bolder outlines of lilies or gerberas to create dramatic contrasts in texture. Or, the wedding bouquet may be composed of numerous blooms of just one type of flower – stephanotis, for example – so that the smooth, creamy texture of the blossom is not overpowered by the presence of any others. Texture in a bridal bouquet, just like color, can be emphasized either by contrast or by repetition.

Another current trend in wedding bouquets is the inclusion of non-floral accents. Ribbons are making a comeback as accessories to bridal bouquets, not in the form of big candy box bows, but as dainty and understated streamers, or wrapped ‘ballet slipper-style’ around the clustered, natural flower stems. Extra-wide ribbon (4″ or more) is often used as a decorative band around the stems of the bouquet, providing a beautiful fashion statement, as well as a luxurious place to grip the flowers. Following the trend toward bigger and brighter bling, pearls, beads, and faux jewels are appearing quite often as embellishments to the flowers, sometimes strung on slender, reflective wires dancing over the surface of the bouquet, threaded onto thin strands of grass and left to dangle, or even glued inside the petals. Such flourishes bring the magic and sparkle of light to the wedding flowers as they’re carried down the aisle.

More and more, flowers are appearing in the hair of brides and bridesmaids. While perfectly suitable for the most extravagant affair, this trend is especially popular with less formal weddings when the flowers may be worn instead of a veil. The blossoms in the bride’s hair should match or coordinate with the ones in her wedding bouquet, and may be affixed to a comb or barrette, worn on a headband, or inserted individually into a flower-friendly hairstyle. Hair flowers aren’t the only popular floral fashion accessory for members of the bridal party. See our earlier newsletter for a discussion of more wedding details.

Click here if you’d like to see some wedding flower pictures. In the meantime, you can be sure that your local professional florist has lots more ideas for designing a customized bridal bouquet that reflects your own, unique personality, while at the same time complementing your wedding gown. Call in advance to set up an appointment for a consultation. Bring pictures and fabric swatches from the bride’s and bridesmaids’ dresses with you, and let your floral designer create the kind of wedding bouquet that dreams are made of.
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